Sunless Tanning: What makes it Work?
Despite the numerous formulations that exist on the market, the basic colour changing process of sunless tanning applications is based upon DHA in combination with other ingredients. Combined, these products alter pigmentation and absorption enhancing properties such as evenness and depth which can affect the longevity of the results.
DHA is not a dye, stain or paint, but an active ingredient which reacts with the amino acids present in the skin. The reaction is very similar to what food chemists refer to as the Maillard Reaction, which is the browning process observed in foods during processing and storage.
Erythrulose, similar to DHA but slower-acting, is often used in combination with DHA to produce a longer lasting effect.
Cosmetic bronzers provide an immediate darker tint, which indicate the approximate colour result of the sunless tanner once it has taken effect, anywhere between 2 – 8 hours later depending on the formulation. For selftanning lotions this is particularly important since the instant colour acts as a guide to make sure the lotion is applied evenly.
Formulations now include special moisturizers, like Aloe to help keep the skin moisturized, skin tightening ingredients to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as a variety of scents to help mask what is generally considered the unpleasant odour associated with sunless products. Unlike just 5-10 years ago however, most products are now pleasantly scented, or even unscented.
The actual long-lasting colour change takes anywhere from 2-8 hours depending on the exact formulation. During this time, showering or any vigorous activity that may result in diluting or removing the product will affect the result and is therefore not advisable. However, after the final tanning effect has been achieved, it will not sweat off or wash off.
The long-lasting colour change develops in the outermost layers of the epidermis, which is why the colour generally lasts 3-10 days and not longer. Because professional systems use higher concentration of DHA, they tend to last longer than home use selftanning products. Heavy sweating, exposure to cholorine and Jacuzzis, and/or frequent body will accelerate natural exfoliation process of dead skin cells thereby shortening the life of a selftan even further.
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